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Woven fabric is a textile surface formed by interlacing two perpendicular yarn systems (warp and weft) on a loom.
Warp: Longitudinal, tensioned yarns.
Weft: Transverse yarns inserted across the warp.
Main weave types:
Plain weave – Most common, strong (poplin, voile, opal, canvas).
Twill – Diagonal lines, durable (gabardine, ribs).
Satin weave – Smooth, lustrous (satin fabrics).
Definition: Fine yarn, tightly woven, smooth surface, lightweight. Used for shirts, blouses, medical textiles.
Technical note: Plain weave, often finer weft than warp.
| Fabric Type | Composition | Note |
|---|---|---|
| 40/1 cotton poplin | 100% cotton | Entry-level |
| 40/1 elastane poplin | Cotton + 3-5% elastane | Stretch |
| 50/1 cotton poplin | 100% cotton | Finer feel |
| 50/1 elastane poplin | Cotton + elastane | Slim fit shirts |
| 60/1 cotton poplin | 100% cotton | Premium |
| 60/1 elastane poplin | Cotton + elastane | High-end stretch |
| 80/1 cotton poplin | 100% cotton | Very fine, semi-sheer |
| 80/1 elastane poplin | Cotton + elastane | Luxury stretch |
| 100/1 cotton poplin | 100% cotton | Ultrafine, batiste use |
Yarn count Ne: Higher number = finer yarn.
Definition: High count (≥80/1), shiny and smooth cotton fabric. Preferred for shirts and luxury apparel.
Difference from poplin: More compact, mercerized (high luster), higher density.
| Fabric Type | Composition |
|---|---|
| 80/1 opal | 100% cotton |
| 100/1 opal | 100% cotton |
Definition: Lustrous surface, soft drape. Used for lingerie, evening wear, decorative textiles.
Weave: Satin weave (long floats on surface).
| Fabric Type | Composition | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| 20/16 satin | Cotton / blend | Bed sheets |
| 40/16 satin | Cotton / blend | Blouses, fashion |
| 20/32/2 satin | Cotton / blend | Heavy drapery |
| Elastane satin | Cotton + elastane | Tight dresses, lingerie |
20/16: Warp Ne 20, weft Ne 16.
20/32/2: Warp 20, weft 32/2 (folded yarn).
Definition: Natural look, breathable, cool. Summer clothing, table linens, suits.
Characteristic: Low stretch, wrinkles easily. Blending with cotton reduces wrinkles.
| Fabric Type | Weight (g/m²) | Composition | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 125 g/m² linen | 125 | 100% linen | Thin shirt, scarf |
| 150 g/m² linen | 150 | 100% linen | Summer trousers |
| 185 g/m² linen | 185 | 100% linen | Jacket, shorts |
| 240 g/m² linen | 240 | 100% linen | Tablecloth, bag |
| Cotton-linen blend | varies | Cotton + linen | Less-wrinkle shirts |
| Yarn-dyed linen | varies | Colored yarn | Decorative woven |
Nm system: 125 g/m² linen approx Nm 20/1.
Definition: Durable, firm, tightly woven twill fabric. Used for workwear, trousers, outerwear.
Technical: 2/1, 3/1 or 2/2 twill with steep angle. Combed yarn gives smoother surface.
| Fabric Type | Composition | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy cotton gabardine (7/1, 8/1, 10/1) | 100% cotton | Heavy duty – corrected from 7/7 |
| 20/1 gabardine | 100% cotton | Medium weight, jackets |
| 30/1 gabardine | 100% cotton | Trousers |
| 40/1 combed gabardine | Combed cotton | Smooth surface |
| 50/1 combed gabardine | Combed cotton | Lightweight gabardine |
| 60/1 combed gabardine | Combed cotton | Luxury fine gabardine |
| Elastane gabardine | Cotton + elastane | Comfort stretch trousers |
Combed → short fibers removed, yarn is stronger and cleaner.
Definition: Durable, firm structure. Bags, workwear, footwear, decoration.
Canvas – plain weave thick yarn.
Panama – 2/2 or 3/3 plain weave variant.
Ribs – twill derivative with pronounced rib effect.
| Fabric Type | Composition | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 20/1 canvas | 100% cotton | Handbags, aprons |
| 8/8 canvas | 100% cotton | Heavy tarpaulin |
| 36/2 ribs | 100% cotton | Fine rib, trousers |
| 20/1 rips | 100% cotton | Thick diagonal line |
| Elastane versions | Cotton + elastane | Stretch work pants |
Definition: Very fine yarn, lightweight, semi-sheer, plain weave. Summer clothing, shawls, blouses, accessories.
Characteristic: High twist, low density → translucent and fluid.
| Fabric Type | Composition |
|---|---|
| 40/1 voile | 100% cotton |
| 50/1 voile | 100% cotton |
| 60/1 voile | 100% cotton |
| 80/1 voile | 100% cotton |
| 100/1 voile | 100% cotton |
Voile is more open and finer than poplin. Not windproof.
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1. Yarn preparation | Warp yarns are wound onto a beam; weft yarns are prepared on bobbins. |
| 2. Weave design | Choose weave type (plain, twill, satin) and density. |
| 3. Warping & reeding | Warp threads are drawn through reed dents. |
| 4. Weaving | Weft is inserted via shuttle, projectile, rapier or air-jet. |
| 5. Grey fabric | Finished weaving, not yet processed. |
| 6. Finishing | Desizing, scouring, dyeing, bleaching, mercerizing, softening, stentering. |
Yarn numbering systems:
Ne (English Cotton Count): Ne = (length(yd) × 840) / weight(lb)
Nm (Metric Count): Nm = length(m) / weight(g)
Tex (g/1000m): Modern industrial standard.
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Warp | Longitudinal yarns under tension |
| Weft / Filling | Transverse yarns |
| Plain weave | Simplest interlacing |
| Twill | Diagonal line weave |
| Satin weave | Float-dominated lustrous surface |
| Fabric weight (g/m²) | Mass per square meter |
| Yarn count | Fineness of yarn |
| Combed yarn | Short fibers removed, cleaner yarn |
| Finish | Chemical/mechanical post-treatment |
| Loom | Weaving machine |